Nan's 2014 Appalachian Trail Journal

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May 4, 2014

4/18 Twenty days on the trail and 176.8 miles. Today was a tough day. Started at Fontana Dam, elevation 1,765 and camped at Mollies Ridge Shelter at 4,602 MSL. Pretty much climbing all day, 12.1 miles. Spent last night at Fontana Village where they had a special hiker rate of $65 for a double room. We did enjoy the comforts but were ready to get hiking this morning. It was cloudy all day and a little cool. I think it will be another cold night. The shelter is not very full, one ridge runner and several section hikers. One hiker, Dragin, who was right behind me, saw a cub and mother bear. I missed it. The other night when we were in the shelter, the night it was so cold, a young man came in wearing a dress. His trail name is Sassafras. He came into the shelter this evening for a break and told me the dress was for the "Southern Belle Challenge". I really was wondering what the dress was all about. It was a tacky flowered print-not at all stylish.

4/19 Another beautiful day in paradise. Rain, sleet, wind, and never saw our shadows. This is the Great Smoky Mountains. Up at 6:30 to a cold windy rainy day. Made 12 miles to mile mark 188.8. Derrick Knob Shelter. Freckles and I were the last two to get in the shelter, only by getting people to squeeze closer. Sure didn't want to set up a tent in the rain. The deal in the Smokies is that you must be in a shelter if there is room. Because of bears, only thru hikers may set up tents. All the shelters have cables to hang food bags so we don't have to go through the nightly routine of throwing a rope over a good tree limb after, and if, you find a suitable one. There has been a lot of bear activity around the shelters. We didn't see any at Mollies Ridge where we spent last night but there was one wandering around the tents at the next shelter to the north. Hikers that spent the day at this shelter said there were two bear patrolling around the shelter. Just had a coyote sighting. It is very close to the camping area. Guess he has found food around here. There is a nice fire going in the fireplace in the shelter but not doing much good unless you are right in front of it. Tomorrow we cross Clingman's Dome (Clingmans Dome is the highest spot on Appalachian Trail at 6,623 ft. MSL) When I hiked here in 2010, I had no view so, if the weather doesn't improve tomorrow, I think that I will hold off for a day. We can do eight miles to the next shelter and hope for better weather Monday.

4/20 Easter on the A.T. Beautiful sunny day. Crossed Clingmans Dome with great views. I guess the third time is a charm. In 2010 a big cloud came over just as I reached the summit. The other time that I was in the Smoky Mtns was in 1972 and it was rainy and foggy at the top then.

Good news! We camped with Sam tonight and he once again had "Billy Bison". Hendo had mailed it to Sam's mother and she then brought it to a trail/road crossing. The shelter was full again tonight.

4/21 Passed the 200 mile mark after two big 15+ mile days. The hike today is considered by many to be the best miles on the trail. It is north of Newfound Gap and it follows a narrow ridge that is sometimes not much wider than the foot path. To the left and right is unbroken range after range of tree covered mountains with no view spoiled by development. The trail was lined with wild flowers. It doesn't get any better than this.

In at Pecks Corner shelter for the night with some hikers that we didn't expect to see again, Randy, Dustin, Mailman, Oregon and Little Bit. T & T went into Gatlinburg to resupply so they will be a day behind us. Hope they can catch up. I have really enjoyed their company. Also miss Happy Mouse, another hiker from Germany. He pulled ahead of us yesterday.

4/22 Rain and cold today. We pulled into Tri Corner Knob shelter about 11:30, cold and wet. Had some hot tea and soup and considered just staying the night But about 1:00 p.m. the rain turned into a drizzle so we decided to move on. We planned to get to Cosby Knob shelter, mile 230.1. There are the remains of a plane crash along this section of trail. The shelter was once again full with many hikers also in tents. Tomorrow will be the big seven mile downhill from 5,000 feet on Mt Cammerer to Davenport Gap and the Pigeon River at 1,411 feet.

4/23 Out of camp at 8:00 for a short day of 10.8 miles and out of the Great Smoky Mtn NP and into Tennessee. If a hiker can make it this far in good shape, feet, knees, back, etc., he can make the rest of the trail. By now you have proved your physical endurance, have gotten your pack weight under control, and are in a routine. We are camping at Standing Bear Farm, a hostel that is run by what looks like an old hippy. Our regular group is all here. We seem to have lost all the older men that were hiking with us earlier right out of Springer. We are now with a much younger group--a lot less snoring at night-except for Spirit. He is 65+ and hiking the trail for the 2nd or 3rd time. He truly is a Spirit and just seems to show up. I have never seen him on the trail hiking or at a shelter or campground camping. But there he will be sitting and eating at a shelter or along the trail like today at Standing Bear when we got there. He has now disappeared again. He says he just hikes along until it gets dark then puts down a ground cloth and his sleeping bag wherever he happens to be and spends the night. He asked for my phone # so he could call to get homemade cookies when he comes thru PA. Me thinks he will need a little trail magic.

4/24 After a night at Standing Bear Hostel, we were clean and ready for another day. It started with a five mile 2,488 foot climb up Snowbird Mtn. We climbed for three hours and were greeted at the mountain top by a tail angel. He is from Ohio and comes to that spot atop Snowbird Mtn everyday through March and April with Trail Magic. Cold drinks, snacks, water, and chairs. What a treat to sit in a chair. He said this is his hobby and he has been doing it for years. After April he goes to the Continental Divide Trail and then to some trail in Colorado, I forget the name. He thinks it's a better hobby than golf. The day did not get any easier after that. After dropping back down to 2,929' elevation, we started up again to 4,629', Max Patch Summit, for a total mileage of 14. I was really dragging when we got there. I saw Spirit hike for the first time! He was having a hard day and he said that he was having chest pain.

Max Patch is one of the highlights of the trail. It is a high bald with 360? views. One of the top 10 spots on the AT. Freckles and I camped at the summit to watch the sunset and, we hoped, the sunrise. But some time during the night the clouds moved in so no good star gazing and no sunrise. It is always very windy up there so after getting buffeted all night, we packed up at 6:00 to move on.

4/25 Today was a great hike on a gentle downhill from Max Patch thru several other balds and great views before another climb up Walnut Mtn and then the killer Bluff Mtn which took us back up to 4,686'. It was cold, rainy, and windy on Bluff and we descended as fast as we could. Camped at Deer Park Mtn shelter after a 16.6 mile day. We found Cadi all alone in the shelter and feeling sad. She had written in the shelter journal, "Cadi was here and she was all alone." Needless to say, she was happy when Freckles and I came walking in. Grizzly Bear also came in. We had been seeing his name on the shelter journals, always one day ahead of us. He is a Big guy from Maine. Real mountain man type. We got sad new that Spirit is going to get off the trail at Hot Springs. The chest pains have not gone away. There was a section hiker that came into the shelter and said he was going to give Spirit a ride back to Springer where his car was parked.

We will be in Hot Springs, mile 273.9, tomorrow after a 3.2 mile hike. In for breakfast. I can already taste the eggs and bacon!

Have a good day.
This is Drag'n Fly signing out.

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